Day Two

Shutter Speed Basics

How to Freeze Motion or Blur It on Purpose**

Today you learn the setting that controls movement more than anything else:

shutter speed.

You’ve met shutter speed before when learning exposure,
but now you’ll see what it actually does to motion.

Once this clicks, blurry photos stop being accidents
and start being choices.

What Shutter Speed Really Is (Soft + Human Explanation)

Shutter speed is simply how long your camera’s “eye” stays open.

Fast = a blink
Slow = a stare

And just like your real eye:

• A blink freezes movement
• A stare shows movement

This is the entire secret to stopping blur.

How Shutter Speed Affects Motion

Fast Shutter (Freeze)

1/500
1/1000
1/2000
Faster = more frozen

Perfect for:

• kids running
• dogs playing
• waves splashing
• hair blowing
• cars passing
• your hands shaking slightly

Fast shutter = clarity.

Slow Shutter (Motion Blur)

1/60
1/30
1/10
1 second
2 seconds

Perfect for:

• silky waterfalls
• light trails
• moving crowds
• creative blur
• long-exposure iPhone shots
• showing energy instead of freezing it

Slow shutter = movement.

You are not avoiding blur —
you’re choosing the kind you want.

The Simple Shutter Speed Guide

(Not Technical, Just Real)**

Here’s the calm, beginner-friendly version:

1/500 and faster
Freezes almost anything.

1/250
Freezes people walking, most everyday moments.

1/125
Good for still subjects, slight movement okay.

1/60
Borderline.
You need steady hands here.

1/30 and slower
Intentional blur.
Only use slow speeds when you want motion.

You don’t have to memorize these.
You just recognize the pattern:

Faster shutter = less blur
Slower shutter = more blur

That’s it.

Using Shutter Speed on Your Camera (Beginner Version)

Today, switch to:

Shutter Priority Mode
(S or Tv on the dial)

This lets you set your shutter speed
and the camera adjusts the rest.

You get to experiment freely without juggling settings.

Using Movement Tools on iPhone

iPhones don’t let you directly choose shutter speeds in the native camera app,
but you have powerful tools built in:

Burst Mode

Hold the shutter → it takes a rapid series of photos
(best chance to freeze action)

Live Photo → Long Exposure

Perfect for creative blur
(waterfalls, traffic, motion)

Steady two-handed hold

Your main freezing tool in low light

More light = faster shutter automatically

iPhone speeds up the shutter in bright conditions.
This is why outdoor iPhone photos are always clearer.

You’re not missing anything —
your tools are just different.

Today’s Practice: Freeze vs Blur Test

Choose a subject with motion:

• your hand waving
• someone walking
• cars passing
• water pouring
• leaves moving
• a swinging object

Take six photos:

Photo 1 — Fast Shutter (1/500 or faster)

Freeze the motion completely.

Photo 2 — Medium Shutter (1/250)

Slight movement might appear.
Good for everyday action.

Photo 3 — Slow Shutter (1/60)

Softness may begin.
Your steadiness matters.

Photo 4 — Intentional Blur (1/10 or slower)

Let the movement paint the frame.

Photo 5 — Flash Freeze (if you have a flash)

Pop a flash indoors and watch motion freeze instantly.

Photo 6 — iPhone Version

Burst Mode for freeze
Live → Long Exposure for blur

What You’ll Notice

The same movement
looks completely different
depending on shutter speed.

Fast = crisp
Medium = natural
Slow = dreamy
Long = artistic

Nothing changed except how long the shutter stayed open.

This is where movement becomes a creative decision instead of something that “ruins” photos.

Why This Matters

Most beginners avoid movement because they’re scared everything will blur.

You’re learning the opposite:

Movement is story.
Movement is emotion.
Movement is opportunity.

You now know how to control it.

Tomorrow, we go deeper into freezing action in different lighting conditions so you know exactly how to shoot confidently in bright light, dim light, and indoors.